Who wants to turn off gif
Found for diode amp volts - To the electronics forum
2 - circuit diagram for Medion MD 1772ie - circuit diagram for Medion MD 1772ie
R326 = 3.9K, R328 = 4.7K, both 1/8 watt.
c326-270pF x 500V
QUESTION NO. P511-7: Acer-7276e 17 "monitor. R328, R32? (This resistor is connected at J174 / R328 to GND, part of label on PCB is damaged by fire) and C326 are burned beyond recognition.
I do not have a chassis in front of me, but the common failure involves HOT Q302, FET Q301 = BSS89, R326 = 3.9K, R328 = 4.7K, R329 = 10K, R241 = 10K, C327 = 220 pF / 3KV, and J013 = 3 Amp microfuse. So possibly your unknown resistor is R326 or R329. See if you can locate both those two resistors intact, or if one is your burnt one (missing).
QUESTION NO. P127-3: What type of transistor is Q301 in an Acer 7276e monitor? The monitor is not passing the horizontal drive signal past this transistor. I read 100 Ohms from base to emitter in both directions. Markings on the transistor are only J9 S S 89.
Q301 is BSS89, a small N-channel DMOS FET, made by Philips or Siemens, rated at 200 Volts, 0.3 Amp, 1 watt, Rds [on] <6 ohms. The pinout is S D G, despite Acer's misleading silkscreens, and it has an internal source-drain bo ...
3 - Protection for a PWM power driver - Protection for a PWM power driver
My first approach is to use a ready-made MOSFET driver (e.g. MCP1407-E / P). But now I don't know how to use it against overload & External voltage contact. I quickly clicked this together:
Is the circuit made halfway sensible? Can't decide between variant A and variant B. As I know you guys, something can definitely be improved. It is probably better to limit the tension with a Z-diode. The overvoltage that is fed back into the power supply is not good for series regulators and switching power supplies. Moment! I need a cross-regulator power supply!
As I said, protection of the driver against overload and external voltage.
The current is limited with the 50 ohms. At 18 V to <0.4 A. The data sheet specifies 1.3 A as the minimum DC current. There is still air.
The diodes should divert external voltage. With 50 ohms via variant A then came to variant B.
Should I get the diode would you prefer to expand?
The other locks correctly as they should.
The resistances all seem to be ok, with the LNK364 I measure 31.5 megaohm / 17.5 kiloohm from the individual pin to diagonally opposite, depending on how I pole the measuring line. ...
I have no idea why I couldn't add a picture afterwards - I hope it works with the picture ...
I got it here because I remembered that there was something with a spool on one of the pages you linked.
Then I looked at it again and then another diode discovered. I have this diode (which is not connected in the picture) not fully understood. Yes, I get some current from the coil again to recharge it more strongly and thus get about 0.1V more out at the back of the 900 ohm load.
But does it have any other point or is it just energy recovery?
I leave the question in there but it was done: I had the idea of a reset with and without diode to do and with diode it was 5.1V in the shortest possible time and without it it took many times longer.
I didn't calculate the values but with Try & Error detected. So whether they make sense or you can buy such components, I don't know any more than where to get 10V AC from, but I don't care at all at the moment. I'm still working on the components and the interaction.
The simulation helps me a lot ...
Probably a somewhat unusual request here.
Unfortunately, I only have a clue of electronics when it comes to + and - but even then I have to remember the colors 😂
But now I have a little problem and I hope the experts can help me.
I've finished building a Proton Pack from the Ghostbusters movie.
The part has an integrated sound and light module from the USA.
This module has a function called overheating.
This overheating results in a small one diode comes on and there is a venting noise.
I have now built a smoke module for myself from an e-cigarette.
The edge consists of 4 elements.
12v driven. - pc fan and a high power led
6v driven. - e-cigarette and air pump
In other words, I have two cycles that have to be closed.
I have already installed a button on the pack to start the smoke manually.
But now my question. Is there a ralai or something similar that automatically closes these two circuits when the LED described above turns on to vent the sound board? So that the smoke is controlled by the board, so to speak?
Run the whole thing with ...
7 - E04 to E31 - Dishwasher Neff SD6P1F Spare parts for SD6P1F from NEFF
The component code on the 2nd picture (presumably. diode) can no longer be deciphered, but I could possibly (not 100% sure) have a similar circuit board lying around in the company for comparison purposes.
(Should I actually speak to you or perl directly in the future? )
You have already given my short answer against a clean TN-S:
I'm too stingy to invest in differential probes. Since the first error is already built in, it can end badly if I establish a ground connection (2nd error).
See also oscilloscope and 230 VAC - What alternatives to 10: 1 probe? In particular below the application "Measurement behind a mains voltage-fed rectifier"
Who is still reading now:
Actually, I wanted to save myself the isolating transformer and only use the energy-saving variable transformer. I had already thought of a circuit that recognizes the phase position and only enables the variable transformer if the base point of the variable transformer and the mains neutral wire match. Two diodes as half-wave rectifiers, the L / N gl ...
I have a strange question:
I'm looking for a Schottkydiode which can withstand approx. 7A and has the lowest possible forward voltage AND is available in any housing that is flatter than 3.2mm or 3.4mm.
The diode my dreams would actually be this one: TSF30U45C
Problem is, the TO220 housing is too thick for my application (4.65mm) ...
Are there diodes with similar properties in "flatter housings"? So the maximum thickness would be 3.2-3.4mm, because I want to install the component in a sandwich panel (please don't ask why ...)
I've googled for ages but couldn't find anything suitable.
Theoretically, you could also connect some normal diodes in parallel ... but that usually leads to one after the other burning out, doesn't it?
Another idea: As a hobbyist you of course have a milling machine and f ...
10 - Humming and getting hot, stinks - Peavey amplifier for bass guitar
Quote: Incidentally, with an atypical error pattern.
So, I can flatly disagree - in the context (I try to repair something) it is completely normal that it is NOT standard damage, it is always the same with my car.
Then I tried the whole thing and nothing burned down so far.
Whether the Amp sounds "scrappy", I can't say yet, because the sound cannot be distinguished from the scratching of the potentiometers that have not been used for 15 years (yes, that was such an eternity project that you always postpone ...). But you heard something anyway, and the power amplifier stayed at around 23 ° C (with bridges and pear).
But you've heard something before, which for me personally is a great step forward - great pleasure!
I measured the DC voltage at the output, that remains very little - now and then ...
dec3000 wrote on 26 Jun 2020 13:12:
The power supply has a 'Charge' LED, but if it doesn't work reliably with NiMH batteries, that's not ideal either. Times have uploaded a photo from the charging power supply unit. I guess the four wires below go to the camcorder? Then I feel confirmed in my assumption that the camcorder can be operated with the power supply unit and the battery is being charged "on the side". I am still bothered by the 2 A.
Classic NiCd chargers like to charge with C / 10 (battery capacity / 10h). After 14 hours of charging, the cells were warm and full. My guess would be that 14 V flow through the four wires to operate the camcorder. The current is limited to approx. C / 10 via another wire (or pair). Would have expected about 200 mA here.
For something like that a simple resistor would be enough (10 ohms?). So much for my semi-lay knowledge of batteries and chargers.
The also fits for parallel operation (battery + power supply unit) diode in the battery pack. Otherwise I can't think of a good reason for ...
They are not available for 5V, why should they? It can drop 80V and died because you applied an external voltage with the wrong polarity, normally it serves as a free-wheeling diode.
With a little luck she was fast enough and breathed out her life in a meaningful way, otherwise it could well be that you destroyed more in the process.
Applying voltage somewhere is rarely a good idea.
By the way, your rectifier isn't either. Unfortunately, you can't read what it is in the bad picture. But it doesn't matter at first.
diode replace (the right way around!), replace relay, keep looking.
By the way, you already have a thread running on your device, please continue with that. https: //forum.electronicwerkstatt.d.....62412
So that means that the diode is broken!
Where can you order them and you can't get them individually these days ?!
Omar K Neusser ...
But if you like to experiment with ancient "extra-low voltage electrics", you should know for yourself why a breaker had to be built into a DC bell.
Extinguishing sparks is now also possible with a corresponding one diode.
Tip from me: Please have a look at the electronics compendium, there is a lot to read and learn. ...
This is not a Zdiode!
[This message was edited by: the one with the short arms on May 6, 2019 18:39] ...
The power pack supplies the bracket with 4.0 V voltage and has no shutdown when the battery is full, which I would like to change inexpensively, can this be implemented somehow?
Greetings Volker ...
LED display + varistor
The module with LED and varistor can be used for AC and DC.
The switch-off voltage peak of the relay coil is reduced to approx. 2.5 -
times the nominal voltage of the module, etc.
In this sense, freewheeling diode may not be appropriate but rather protective circuit ... as you said correctly diode is at DC voltage ..
I can probably omit this or if the inductance is rather low ..!?
[This message was sent ...
My first step was reprogramming the SPI ROM chip. To do this, I bought a programmer based on a CH341a from a Chinese dealer for little money, plus a spring clip for SO-8 with a ribbon connection. The costs for this were less than € 10.
It was a little more difficult to find suitable software, but this video helped me:
Unfortunately I couldn't program the chip on the board. Either the other ICs on the SPI bus caused problems, or the clip did not make proper contact when soldered in.
So I had to unsolder the memory chip. Then the content could be read out. Unfortunately there is a lot of noise in 8MB and I couldn't find the counter reading. It's also not clear whether little or big endian. The search found over 20 matches.
So I wanted to solder the chip back in and print another page. To protect him, I wanted to use the clamp (see second picture). However, that didn't work out that well and ...
It is already clear that the junction temperature of the transistors can change much faster than that of the heat sink.The heat sink acts as a thermal low-pass filter due to its heat conduction and heat capacity.
Quote: If the heat sink gets warm after a while, and you wanted to reduce the U_BE of the output transistors so much that the quiescent current is "correct" again, you would end up with strong transfer distortions in the event of a sudden drop in volume, because the transistor, which cools down quickly, is now No quiescent current at all for a while.
But I don't quite share this consideration, because even a transistor that is now idling would not cool down below the heat sink temperature. (The transistor itself can only supply heat to the system, but not absorb it.) The temperature measured on the heat sink is always lower than that of the barrier layer.
But I still believe that I basically understand what you're getting at ...
Quote: The diode ZD904 measures 0.001 from both sides with the diode function, i.e. it should be built in or removed?
The R902 is installed in parallel and if the IC901 is an ICE2QS03 https://www.infineon.com/dgdl/Datas.....d7070, then R902 makes the current measuring resistor in the source line of the switching mosfet and it should be right be low resistance - possibly below 1 ohm.
But if you're there, what does the R902 say under the circuit board from the imprint?
And is IC901 an ICE2QS03? Booger free, not that he lifted his hat under the mush.
At all; if you see the 3.3VSB secondarily on the C953, then it can not happen with the IC901 and the ...
Quote: So far I have found pure A4 diodes, but there are these other values on the component I read A4s there - that would be a BAV70 double diode with a common cathode
When in doubt that A4s is one diode is, then check out what function this component has.
If the / one diode line is parallel to the / one coil of a relay, the diode/ Diode line used as a free-wheeling diode.
And that would also explain why she (or one half of her) let out the magic smoke when you put your 9V block upside down on the relay ...
When a diode dies, it usually carries with it at least 1 other person.
You should therefore replace all 4 diodes.
Replacement type for BY133 would be 1N4004 to 1N4007; also one designed for 1A diode.
If the BY133s were operated close to this 1A, one could consider replacing them with diodes from the 1N5404 to 1N5407 series. These diodes can be loaded with up to 3A.
As a result, the power supply unit is no longer stronger - because ultimately the transformer limits its performance - only the 3A diodes have a little more reserve and are better able to get rid of the heat that is always generated due to their larger housing.
One more word about the installation;
In your case, ALL cathode rings are pointing in the same direction; including the cremated diodes.
A Kopakt GL could also be installed to avoid this connecting wire bending entanglement.
Examples would be
https://www.reichelt.de/Gleichrichter/B250R-DIO/3/index.html?ACTION=3& GROUPID = ...
Defect: microwave broken,diode defective
Device type: HF66051 / 01
FD number: 8207
Name plate line 1: V72180045
Knowledge: no knowledge of the matter
my parents have a Siemens built-in microwave with convection function, model HF66051. After a while the microwave function broke.
Siemens customer service found that a diode is defective and has replaced it. Some time later, the same defect reappeared. The customer service came again, but said that it was this diode was no longer available as a spare part and he was only allowed to install original Siemens spare parts. A repair would therefore no longer be possible.
I then got the original spare part myself (Google is your friend: https://www.directrepair.de/diode-00032877-bosch.html). My parents called the customer service department again, who then installed the original Siemens spare part - and for a short time the device ran perfectly again. Then, a short time later: diode malfunction. Microwave didn't work anymore ...
Today I have a problem with which I don't even know what the problem is.
So in order:
I have a scooter. (12V board network)
I wanted an additional function.
Triggered with a button.
Ordered a relay with a flip-flop input in China.
Is working. Button pressed, relay picks up, button pressed, relay de-energizes. Everything is wonderful.
Now everything is built into the scooter, fairing removed, cable ties removed. 1 hour of work. Drive off, push button pressed, function starts. Button pressed, function goes out. Happy.
Braked. Function goes on, braked again, function goes out. Flashes, function goes on, turn signal off, function goes out.
Defect: FE 31
Device type: KM 6090 ESDT / LPT / 0
S number: 230614865672
Knowledge: Related occupation
Measuring devices: multimeter, phase tester, Duspol
right up front, after I couldn't post here due to the length of the error code, I turned to the partner forum transistornet.de and already created a thread there.
=> https://www.transistornet.de/viewtopic.php?f=49& t = 10458
The stand can also be viewed there.
---- Short version ----
It killed the IGBTs on a plate with a loud bang (several times after changing these IGBTs). In the meantime I have made further measurements and another defective one diode can make out. With that one diode I do not currently know whether I will use an 18V-Z-diode right.
It is an SMD component in a Mini-MELF housing and is labeled C18V (black ring). However, I cannot find the component under the name, and I am therefore undecided whether it is actually a ...
Quote: I can find information about
"Maximum ∆Ec" with +/- 1V Yes, it says "Absolute maximum ratings".
So you shouldn't exceed this value if you want to use the IC later.
The reason is the numerous and somewhat confusing diode sections in the output stage of the OTA.
If, for example, EC- is positive, an unlimited current can flow to EC + via the B-C path of Q3 and the C-B path of Q1 as soon as twice the diode forward voltage is exceeded.
Quote: "Gain-Control Constant" with (approx.) 6mV / dB You could also say 120mV for 20dB, i.e. a tenfold increase in the output current.
Not until L ...
Edit: for the 400V to 5V isolating transformer you can also use 2 230V / 5V transformers and connect the primary and secondary windings of both transformers in series.
2 * https://www.reichelt.de/Printtrafos.....%252A
Primarily in series and secondary in series results in an alternating voltage of approx. 10-20 V on the secondary side
[This message was edited by: the one with the short arms on Aug 9, 2017 19:57] ...
Defect: Control board defective
Device type: coffee grinder
Knowledge: Minimal knowledge (Ohm's law)
Hello dear forum members,
my Mahlkönig Vario Home coffee grinder no longer grinds. A countdown is still shown on the display, but the engine will no longer start. When I opened the mill, I noticed two defective resistors on the control board.
Since a new circuit board costs 110 euros, I would like to replace the rectifier diode D4 and the resistors R6 and R7.
The forum member zuizac apparently once had a similar problem:
From the original post is the picture of the working board as I couldn't find a high resolution picture on the internet. I would be very happy if one of you knew what kind of resistance and what kind of resistance diode it is ...
With conventional shunt regulators, however, it annoys me that they short-circuit the solar cell when the battery is full. I would then like to use the energy to operate fans or a water pump.
So to my question: what is that called? With 'surplus control' I have just found two hits, or is this not common in the power class of 12V regulators with 1-10 A?
But the more I think about it I will probably get a 0815 charge controller with a NE555 or µC and some hysteresis to implement this control. Motors start up a little easier on a battery.
Or is there something to buy in my performance class and I just don't know the right terms?
I'm a little embarrassed, but if you know the data, here's the ...
... but without them diode...
The best thing to do is to ask the diode designer
[This message was modified by: Offroad GTI on 7 Jun 2017 17:21] ...
Quote: The middle one has no passage in both directions or wildly changing resistances between ~ 0.1K and 3M. You can have a resistance with one of these diode, especially in a circuit, measure poorly.
Quote: The two outer ones (par with the MKPs between the +/- outputs to the motors) have continuity in both directions or <0.1Ω. If the motors are still connected, no wonder.
Quote: or what values these "bipolar diodes" should have. You can't say in general. Tends to have to diode have a high resistance, as the measurement voltage of the Mul ...
Do you know that here ?: https: //www.elektronik-kompendium.d.....=time
However, there is only one diode written.
Have there always been two elements to the switch in your machine?
Did both elements come loose with the switch, or were they already soldered in there?
If you want to insert a photo here, please make sure that the essentials can be seen on it. Why should I see the table pad on 80% of the picture and the switch only on 20%?
Right now I have to think very strongly about a nightingale, but I'll wait for your answers.
Defect: does not work (ELP165S)
Device type: W5821
Knowledge: Completely from the subject
Measuring devices: multimeter, phase tester, Duspol
I just got myself a new (used) Miele washing machine.
Now it is finally upstairs in the apartment and is defective
After connecting, I wanted to test everything briefly and started the 20 minute wash cycle. Washing and pumping went. When it started to spin the machine went off after approx. 10 seconds and has not been switched on since then.
Nothing happens after switching on (no LED lights up, no sound)
While the push button is pressed, a resistor (yellow circle) glows quite brightly and it also smells burnt.
I discovered these photos in a (Russian?) Forum.
If I translated it correctly, there was the IC (ok, you can see) and the diode (red circle) defective. With me the IC is optically intact and so is the diode I measured (Uf approx. 0.5V).
does anyone know the problem? A repair of the circuit board is offered on ebay if this error occurs ...
Quote: I like this suggestion! I'll remember.
This handicraft is also available as a "Battery Eliminator" for $$$.
http://www.batteryeliminatorstore.com/index.php?id_product=74& controller = product
Such a professional solution quickly becomes very expensive only with 10 or more figurines.
Quote: Sounds great and, above all, feasible ^^ Another tip in the margin;
try out with how much tension these figures are still yours
Claims shine brightly enough, or do what they should.
Remember: With 3 AAA batteries you only have 4.5V with fresh cells. For the majority of the service life, the voltage is more likely to be 3-3.6V ...
for the repair of a switching power supply SNT repair I am looking for a replacement for a Schottky diode, as this has passage in both directions.
It is about a diode made of glass, probably DO-35 design (so quite tiny). On the diode the following is printed on it: 278 or maybe it is also called 27B.
Unfortunately, I can't find anything on Google or the well-known electronics shops.
(the defective diode was installed near the N-channel MOSFET, which was also defective)
thank you in advance for the help!
[This message was modified by: unclejamal on Jan 21, 2017 18:29] ...
Defect: display dark, buzzer beeps
Manufacturer: Whirlpool / IKEA
Device type: FXRP6
S number: 857911701000
FD number: 141202022814
Name plate line 1: 002.181.79
Name plate line 2: IKEA / WH
Name plate line 3: OVN 908 / S
Knowledge: Related occupation
Measuring devices: multimeter, phase tester, Duspol
As a "silent reader in the background" I have often had useful tips & To be able to draw tricks from a wide variety of contributions.
But today I need help directly because I couldn't find anything specific for my problem.
Problem child as described above, the built-in oven "Nutid" / OVN 908 / S from IKEA / Whirlpool ...
After the "D" segment of the hour tens with failure was shining on the clock on the display for some time, the temperature display (arrow / triangle) was recently added. Since this was perceived as very annoying (reaching the oven temperature no longer readable) I went to work with a WE and removed the display board to "ring through" the LED display. The result: said segments are defective - for whatever reason ...
Display in ...
[This message was modified by: Otiffany on 4 Jan 2017 12:11] ...
Mr.Ed wrote on Dec 17, 2016 5:31 pm:
And then why does something have to be rebuilt? Something like that is also available.
Check them out diode for continuity and if this is defective, first check whether there is a short circuit behind it.
The diode is already perfect.
Swap the LED channels on a trial basis.
Then you know whether it is due to the NT.
Or apply a correspondingly high DC voltage to the LED channels.
Then you can see whether the current is too high or a strip has an interruption.
I have now created the functional channel step by step on the lines in the connector. The four lines on the left, which seem to run over the functional channel, are responsible for the upper screen lighting. (attached a picture)
Connecting the power source to lines 9 & 10 and 15 & 16 has brought nothing. However, when you connect ...
But if you look for the board name (L1799), you will be offered repair kits consisting of:
- U002 - LNK304PN
- R020 - 22 Ohm wire resistor / 3W (stronger than the original 2W) + 33Ohm for L1799, L2158, L2524. I also have 27 Ohm resitor, if you need it for any other board. Just notify
me by email if you need it.
- L003 - 0.47mH choke (470μH) /0.5A (better than the original, which has only 0.3A)
- C022, C023 - 2 x capacitor 4.7μF / 400V 105 ° (low ESR, to last 5000 hours instead of 2000 as in the original)
- D029, D030 - 2 x 1N4007 diode
- D006 - 200 V zener diode (3EZ200), DZ006 in L1799, L2158, L2524
- RV07 - varistor fi 10mm (originally only 7mm)
There are fittingly the components that my father described as "charred".
Let's see if I can get it from my local parts dealer tomorrow, then I can change it and see if it works again.
I started this discussion at the time, but unfortunately one can no longer answer it. Summary:
4 stroke stationary engine 6.5 HP without Lima, drives a diving compressor. This has a 12V automatic condensation system, which opens two solenoid valves for 1 second every 10 minutes. So far this was done on a small battery. Disadvantage:
1) Battery needs to be charged
2) The automatic condensation function also works when the engine is off. This is usually not wanted, I have to press an off switch, which I always forget.
Desired: 12V should only go to the automatic condensation system when the engine is running (downstream electronics box). Ideally without a battery (maintenance, forgotten battery, defective battery ...)
The discussion in the link raised many solutions and even more questions:
- Sufficient power of the Lima, is a backup battery necessary?
- How constant is the voltage of 12V? At most, damage to the automatic condensation system due to ...
Defect: Compressor does not start
Device type: KK26E01
S number: KK26E01 / 02
FD number: FD7503
Knowledge: Related occupation
Measuring devices: multimeters, phase tester
the refrigerator has the known problem that the compressor starts irregularly for a few seconds and then switches off again.
The compressor itself is fine: If it is fed directly by bridging the control electronics, it will run perfectly.
There are some reports on the problem in this forum and also on the Internet, e.g.
http: //leistungsmodul.blogspot.de/se ...
The smoked creep (R57) (47Ω) belongs to the switching regulator (U3) (LNK364GN) of the power supply unit.
Measure this from Drain (Pin5) to Source (Pin1,2,7,8) for continuity.
If there is continuity or a low resistance at one of these pins, the switching regulator has died of a short circuit.
The diode(D4) can easily be measured in the blocking and passage direction, in the photo it just looks like black dust on D4. See if it can be cleaned.
[This message was modified by: silencer300 on Jul 27, 2016 22:52] ...
Quote: How do I charge this thing? I know that they draw a lot of current when lead batteries are empty. However, I don't expect too much from my solar system. evt max 0.5A @ ≈7V (I will only determine the voltage when I know what I need).
So how can I do that. are there simple circuits that regulate the charging process? Current limitation, overvoltage protection ...? Since the solar cell does not supply more current than it can supply, the maximum current is already limited by the. I mean one is enough diode (Schottky or similar) as 'electronics'. The solar cell is so weak that it can hardly overcharge the battery.
Quote: After all, I also want my equipment to last a little longer I have a 12 V module with 10 W here (actually 20 W ...
SM4T24CA: 24 V Z-diode
SMAJ15CA: Bidirectional Z-diode (~ 17 V)
As Maou-Sama has already said, there is only too much to measure. Look whether the two soldering pads are in series or parallel to the power supply.
Do you know how the camera died? Overvoltage / reverse polarity? ...
BlackLight wrote on Feb 12, 2016 10:45 PM:
I meant something like this: https://www.reichelt.de/Blei-Vlies-.....48556
0.8 Ah, 420 g and 10 cm x 2.5 cm x 6 cm
There are certainly cheaper elsewhere.
Looks good, but I still think it's quite big.
Is there a simple solution with just a 9V block? '
When I get the diode switch to the battery, 12v would always be applied to the step up module, do you think that does the module something?
Here the module:
In addition, thyristor bridges offer the option of correcting the unbalance of the load.
I think the diodes are mercilessly oversized because SI power engineering was still very young at the time. If the statement of my old colleagues is correct, then at least 100% air was left upwards, with almost every step.
D.H. with the diodes (750A per diode, should create 1800A), at the bridge (1000A according to the nameplate, should create about 2000A) and then at the cabinets (4000A at 2300A rated current)
But the stuff has been running for 50 years without malfunction and would hold out for the next 50 ... But luckily there are no more spare parts for it & the switch at the top sometimes twitches when it has not been operated for a long time. ...
I have now ordered the housing, the cable gland and the switch.
For the cable gland, however, I opted for a size larger because I can't really get a 5x1.5 cable into the M12 guide. Before questions arise as to why I take 5x1.5 ...
Since I need 2 lines + PE for each radiator, I will go out of the switch housing with a 5x1.5² and only go to the radiators split in a junction box on the roof, because then I only have to lay a cable along the wall (looks nicer out). That's why I chose the cable gland in M20 (here I would even get a 5x2.5² through if stronger emitters were to be used at some point).
I also changed my mind about the switch ...
the little one is enough, even Russian shouldn't be a problem. What is Google Translate for?
Basically, I am concerned with a maximum of 20kHz square wave frequency (PWM), which I have in my model railway (more of a toy railway than a model railway) for analogue control of the locomotives or to track audio signals. 500kHz and one channel would be enough.
In addition a robust & portable model.
To "work" (although I hardly get to "work" at home because of our 3 little angels at the age of 2, 3 and 4 years) I have 2 "modern" analog Hamegs (20 & 40MHz, max. 20 years old).
Then I would like to send you the Tek to complete your collection.
The only question is how best to get the device to you. I think I should reassemble it to avoid damage in transit. Good packaging is a matter of course.
However, it can still take a while until I really get around to screwing it back together.
At that time I had a 4700µF capacitor and a 15V Z-diode soldered in as a battery replacement. Had worked wonderfully. Should i leave that in?
I would like to make a small switch box, which is used to switch 2 external LED lamps (12V) on and off.
I would like to install 2 of these rocker switches:
An LED Travo with 12 volts and 18 watts should hang behind the switches. As an optical detection, I would like to connect a light-emitting diode to each of the switches, which lights up as soon as the rocker switch is operated.
Question: I need one diode in blue and one in red for the other switch. Which LEDs do I have to use with which resistors? Would like to order from Reichelt, as the other accessories are already "in the shopping cart" ;-).
I would also like to equip the 230 volt input with a switch, so I'm also looking for a directly illuminated one.
Sorry if that sounds a little confusing. Unfortunately, I am not that competent ...
I (beginner) have now decided to use a diode decided.
my idea briefly as an overview:
Code: solar module voltage converter diode consumer
6.5V / 1.7A >> L4940V5 >> serial >> 5V (up to 1.5A (measured when power supply is charging))
I tested the following diodes (in the sun):
The current flows (wonderful) ....
can use a solar cell to limit the voltage to 5V using L4940V5.
The consumer can thus be charged easily.
... am a beginner reading the data sheet, so here's a simple question:
Is it necessary after the L4940V5 a diode to be connected so that the consumer (when there is less sun) cannot discharge himself to the solar cell. or is this not necessary at all?
it is the L4940V5 (http://www.reichelt.de/ICs-KA-LF-/L-4940-V5/3/index.html?ACTION=3& GROUPID = 2911 & ARTICLE = 9737 & OFFSET = 16 &).
Best regards ...
Quote: So that the meter beeps? No, one diode is no resistance.
At low currents, a Sidiode about a forward voltage drop of Uf = 500 ... 600mV
If we now say that the measuring current is 1mA, the measuring device looks like a resistance in the range of 500 ... 600Ω.
The threshold for beeping is usually far below (if you cannot set it otherwise)
As Mr Ed said, the displayed (resistance values) are completely plausible.
If it had a diode function, it would also display said 500..600mV.
Quote: Yes, I measured in the diode test!
Usually nothing beeps during the diode test.
[This message was edited by: Offroad GTI on 22 ...
ffeichtinger wrote on Jul 22, 2015 10:02 am:
... and hopefully a decent freewheeling diode is also included.
As a matter of fact. From a switching power supply I have a U208 (some China part ) taken out. 800V reverse voltage, 2A (60A peak) and most importantly 75ns reverse recovery time. When I had a slightly slower one in there (but not 1N400x slow, but actually already a "fast-switching-diode") even a smoothing capacitor got warm because of the high pulse currents (diode was still leading while the IGBT opened).
The motor is probably a series machine right? The brakes are of course relatively bad.
You could also separate the field winding and armature winding and then control them separately using PWM. Then you would have a kind of freely controllable external excitation ...
Defect: Standby flashes
Device type: T40T882 FHD
Chassis: 17PW26-4 V.1
Measuring devices: multimeters
I'm new to this board and just wanted to introduce myself. My name is Volker, I am 40c years old, can solder fairly well and I have a DMM. I am rather unfamiliar with my subject and since I recently got stuck with my problem even on Italian pages including Google translator, I have decided to ask for help here.
To my problem:
Device: Telefunken T40T882 FHD 42 "
Power supply: Vestel 17PW26-4 V.1 (circuit diagram available)
Error: After switching on, the blue LED lights up for 15 seconds, then it flashes alternately with an orange LED.
Only 5 volts (pin 14) and 3.3 volts (pin 16) are present on the secondary side. 12V and 24V are dead. After switching on the MB switches 3Volt 4 times in a row to the standby (PIN6)
and then the two LEDs begin to flash alternately. (Also a bridge from pin 14/16 to the standby input pin 6 does not switch on the 12V / 24V)
I then swapped all 7 electrolytic capacitors (top right). No ...
elko64 wrote on 10 Jun 2015 16:50:
Offroad GTI wrote on 10 Jun 2015 16:44:
Looks like something.
Do you also have the corresponding rectifier?
Then you need some.
Ne Stino 1N400x does not work here, unfortunately, something has to be done properly
Edit: E.g. six of them http://www.ebay.de/itm/1-Stuck-Leistungsdiode-301UR80-800Volt-300Amp-Standart-Recovery-diode- / 331577601794? Pt = LH_Defa ...
But you obviously know which component it is.
Not yet. It is one diode. I should get something identical.
How do I find the same construction?
If you should call a multimeter your own, you can diode measure for a short circuit in the ohm range of the instrument; you should also change the polarity of the measuring lines. If almost zero ohms are measured in both directions, that is diode malfunction!
I will be happy to do it. I already noticed that it was defective after it had smoked nicely.
Therefore, measuring will not do me any good.
Don't you see that I'm not getting any further?
I'm just looking for the right replacement.
What must ...
Thank you, that's what I call quick and competent help!
With the internal diode you are absolutely right. I hadn't looked at the internal circuitry of the controller because I had taken over the circuit diagram from someone as checked and functional - my mistake.
That transistor is an excellent idea.Then I connect terminal 8 of the TL 497 directly to ground and replace T-7 with a PNP type, which is controlled by the µC, as before, and switches the supply voltage to the converter.
The boost converter should deliver a maximum of 500 mA. Which transistor would you recommend? E.g. a BCP 53 * (max. 1 A) or a BC 161 ** (1.5 A, i.e. greater safety reserve)?
Do I need a freewheeling diode because of the 220 µH inductance?
And, stupid question, why a PNP transistor and not an NPN, I want to switch a positive operating voltage?
Thanks again and best regards
Some dealers also offer enclosures.
Do you have a picture? ...
The resistor should work, measured 1.76 KΩ.
The SMD says 4049B and 9407H
I found the following data sheet for the 4049B:
There is also spoken of the 5V (up to a maximum of 15V).
Would a Zenerdiode 500 mW - 5.1V fit? Is there something wrong with the pre-resistance?
I would have found something like that. Only which one?
Can I measure what on the circuit board at the contacts with a multimeter?
And should diode D2 will also be over then I'll build a new one.
Although I don't know which ones here either. ...
Quote: Perl, you screwed up!
There are connection plates that connect the diodes. No, I haven't, I know that these are brass strips.
Nevertheless, there is resistance.
Fuse resistors even, because the one on your last photo burned out because the diode is defective.
This is achieved by reducing the cross-section of one point by making a 2mm hole in the sheet metal strip, which is perhaps 6mm wide.
The connection tape is maybe 0.5mm thick, and since copper conducts at least 4x better, the brass sheet metal tape corresponds to a copper conductor of about 0.75mm2.
Quote: Is this "undersizing" because the diodes are only switched through at every half-wave (positive or negative) and so less heat is lost!
Hello forum members,
Maybe someone can help me...
I've been desperately looking for a dealer for almost 2 hours who will sell me this thyristor at a reasonable price (including shipping):
The thyristor is built into the control electronics of a heating pad.
I also need this bridge rectifier:
I get this from a well-known, large supplier "Con ..." with a delivery time of one week. Unfortunately, this large electronics company cannot provide me with the above. Get a thyristor!
The problem will be that the MFM disks usually only run on the controller or that the data on which they were LL-formatted is accessible.
Theoretically, you could take an old board with an ISA interface, install a SCSI controller, deactivate the on-board IDE controller and play an OS on the SCSI drive.
Then hope that an MFM controller reads the disk correctly. I still have 7 MFM controllers from different manufacturers / 16 and 8 bit with me. I could test it out with your record & save the content if possible. A friend of mine still has an Amiga 2000. The disk including the controller could possibly be running there. I ask if he would be ready for a test.
Edit: to the power supply:
For an initial error analysis, if no circuit diagram is available, feed in the output voltages externally. The possibly existing 78xx / 79xx per diode protect. Only a few 10mA should flow. In this way you can rule out a short circuit on the secondary side.
However, a conductive capacitor on the primary side could also create the fault pattern. Either in the beginning ...
After unsoldering, PIN 1 is still 5V and PIN 3 is still 3.3 - 3.4V. If I simply bridge PIN 1 and PIN 4, then I have 5V on the associated USB port and I can use devices. So is it a simple one? diode? With 6 legs? What kind of function can that thing have? Of course, I can just bridge all of them, but then I have a problem if there is another overload.
Can I use any suitable USB 2.0diode build in?
For example, I found this:
Quote: What do these 900 V mean? I don't see "900 V" there, only "930 V", with Type in front of it
Quote: but the electronics should survive, definitely improves the chances.
Quote: Are there suitable diodes for my project? For sure.
This module may seem hopelessly oversized, but a "too g ...
Defect: ONLY STBY
Device type: MD30418
Measuring devices: multimeter, oscilloscope
Hello the German colleagues!
This television remains in stby, the orange led is always on.
At the beginning I thought the mainboard was dead. I've changed it in the meantime, but still the same error.
The problem is probably in the power supply: MODEL AY151L-4HF01. Is there a circuit diagram of it?
The 5v is present on pin 9 of connector con3f. on diode D14 is also the 12V present but it does not come to the connector: the whole underside with the 3 voltage regulators gives no output voltage.
The 2 capacitors C1 & I've already tested C2!
Who has a tip?
Greetings from Belgium!
Quote: 8 ohms / 6 - 12 volts AC But you supply it with direct voltage?
Must be, otherwise you would have de diode probably dismantled immediately.
Apart from that, 1.5A already flow at 8Ω and 12V. You should really use a 1N400x there.
Quote: why not?
Isn't the load shared across both diodes? Exactly. Due to the manufacturing process, everyone has diode a slightly different characteristic.
By connecting them in parallel, you force the same voltage on them. Due to the different characteristics, however, there are different interferences.
The negative temperature coefficient then ensures that the less polluted diode (i.e. the colder one) even less current flows, which means that the already heavily loaded receives even more current, etc ...
When operated as a free-wheeling diode, it is not quite so ...
Quote: is the system ok? It looks better this way.
The right diode between the PV module and the electrolytic capacitor you can give yourself.
Quote: The ON time for the LED should be lengthened or shortened depending on the irradiation (energy supply) from the PV module, similar to an extremely slow PWM display.
If the PV module delivers more energy than the LED consumes, the voltage is above 11V and the LED then lights up continuously.
However, this will still not work, because the higher the charging current, primarily the shorter the charging time of the capacitor.
Switching on always takes place at the voltage specified by UZ + UBE, i.e. the frequency of the flasher is proportional to the charging current.
What you need is a so-called LDO (Low Drop Out) voltage regulator, like this one: TPS 76933
Edit: Can you put an additional load (e.g. a 1k resistor for 3.3mA) on the radio module?
Then you could try a red LED.
Quote: when sending but in the umpteen mA range.
10, 100, 1000mA
[This message was modified by: Offroad GTI on Nov 2, 2014 21:47] ...
I have a set of 3 radio-controlled sockets (type designation NR EL-0801 | ART NR 08040), No Name, I no longer know where I bought them.
One after the other (several weeks or months apart) the following has occurred with the cans: Still reacting to switching by remote control, diode however, it seems to shine weaker. Switching, however, no longer has any effect, they are current-permeable when switched off and on, so they no longer regulate the supply and are therefore obsolete.
My question: Can you possibly repair these things cheaply or do you prefer to go to the electronic scrap and get something new? Soldering station and some experience is available, the things would be difficult to open because they are equipped with special screws (type No. 4 or No. 6 for this set http: //www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00 ... ..o-21)
Best regards and thanks ...
My idea was the following: Quote "Physically represents the diode almost a short circuit [...] ". A short circuit means a big jump in the time derivative of the current. This in turn, according to Mr. Fourier, results in a broad frequency spectrum.
With a suitable resistance one could possibly weaken it. It was just a stupid idea of mine, where I don't know myself whether it works or not. I got into the blue, because there are no photos & Wiring diagram there. (As perl noted.) ...
The connections of the hybrid will not be "operated out" until the weekend.
But what surprises me is that the balancing resistors are not externally visible.
There is something like test connections next to the hybrid. It could be that the resistor network is brought out there.
I'll make an order with components for 2 EEA. Standard items such as Kerkos, foil capacitors, carbon film resistors, transistors, a few OPV, electrolytic capacitors, diodes and the like. I have there, but nothing special like thyristors, MKT or MKS.
If I recreate the circuit then anyway ...
I built a generator and with it the following problems.
First of all I would like to tell you what was installed and for what purpose.
Briggs & Stratton 5HP 198ccm 4-stroke petrol engine from an old generator
Bosch alternator 28V 80A from Mercedes Actros with MFR
LiFePo4 Pack with A123 cells 8S2P 5Ah 25.6-28.8V
A little square profile
Cable in sufficient size
I bought the engine and the Lima from eBay classifieds.
Lima was almost new, at least that's what the brushes on the controller and the little worn sliding contacts on the rotor tell me.
I built the generator for mobile power generation for my Junsi 308 to quickly and efficiently charge LiPo batteries.
I connected everything as shown in the picture, when I connected the battery to the alternator I heard soft cracking noises shortly afterwards the capacitor in the lid opened.
Battery removed and after diagnosis found that 3 of 6 diodes have burned out the bars. The multimeter then showed that all 6 diodes are burned out. So I went to the scrap metal to get a diode plate ...
T1 and T2 are a replica of a thyristor. Once ignited, it short-circuits the supply and extinguishes when the holding current is undershot. Your T2 closes the supply for the 24 V Z-diode short. The 10 ohms are only a current limiting resistor for the 24 V Z-diode. This stabilizes the supply voltage for the relay. The 4.7V Z-diode but has to cope with the current through the 24 V ZDiode + the relay current.
So in order to calculate how large the current can be, we need Xc!
and at 1µF and 50 Hz I get XC = 3183.099 Ω, i.e. around 3k ohms.
According to the ollem OHM, I is then 300V: 3000Ohm = 0.1 A This results in the 4.7V Z-diode
4.7V * 0.1A = 0.47 VA! And for your R23 P = R * I * I = 10Ohm * 0.1A * 0.1A = 0.1 W.
Roughly, the 24 V Z-diode because 24V * 0.1 A = 2.4 W in heat! Mind you without the relay!
[This message was edited by: the one with the short arms on Sep 10, 2014 14:19]
[This message was edited by: the one with the short arms on Sep 10, 2014 14 ...
Defect: drawer does not close
Device type: C541
Measuring devices: multimeters
Some time ago I got a NAD C541, the previous owner wanted to get rid of it because the drawer was lame. When I wanted to try it out, nothing worked anymore, the drive no longer has enough power to bring the laser to the CD after the drawer was closed and the drawer opens again immediately.
This seems to be an absolutely typical fault of this device and is mostly attributed to the belt or motor. From the behavior (noise etc.) I would rather exclude the belt, it sounds as if the motor has no power. Then by chance I got my hands on a Dutch video. There someone has the same model with the same flaw and goes on a search.
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