Traeger 1 PS is like many watts

Battery mod: How many watts & what number of batteries for a lot of steam?

In this post I answer for steam beginners what power is required for a mod, how many batteries a mod should have, and when combi mods are better.

If question marks appear over the head of the hair with the terms in the article: Abbreviations & terms

Radio Yerevan replies: "In principle, yes, if you also want to smoke and make a cigarette lighter glow at the same time."

Seriously, the actual power required for vaping is essentially dependent on ...

  • thePulling technique (MTL or DTL).
    • For DTL: how open the vaporizer is (Air flow).
  • TheSize of the winding (Wire thickness / wire length / surface).

DTL & air flow

The air throughput is a very important point because it counteracts the wattage in a cooling manner. The aim is to find a harmony of air flow and performance - then it steams like a shell and tastes like a bucket of strawberries with cream & caramel sauce.

With the DTL pulling technique, the steam is drawn directly into the lungs. The “vapor limit” is therefore the human lung volume. This volume should be filled with steam, in a certain time, with a certain air flow. This air flow is limited in speed and duration - and manageable, because we are humans and not elephants. So now you need a certain amount of power to enrich a “human air flow” with steam. I personally think approx. 50 watts for sufficient in order to be able to achieve a very, very high steam saturation. Come on was, what's the stinginess, from me also 100 watts, if you use double windings whose surface should compete with aircraft wings. One can rightly ask oneself about this: Watt should that still? Because the optical increase in vapor density will eventually be so small that it is practically imperceptible, so the clouds do not get thicker, unless you want to imagine it on YouTube (or "compare" evaporators / windings with different weapons there).

Performance is performance. Someone has to breathe away the many watts that are generated in the vaporizer, then that's you. 😉 How to turn it around: Most of the power generated comes from the evaporator, and at some point it just gets hot and tastes bad. Unless you ARE an elephant, then you can of course breathe a lot more away, but you also need larger vaporizers. 😀

How many watts one for fat, or should we say "for thick clouds“Required always depends on the air flow rate of the evaporator, how open he lets the air through, i.e. what volume of air it allows per unit of time.
A very open evaporator is much more important for mega-fat clouds than anything else, and the power becomes more and more to from approx. 50 watts Minor matter.
An open "Open Draw" vaporizer not only allows a larger air flow, but also that very rapid inhalation of the steam, which is important if you want to create clouds that are optically as dense as possible. Because steam dissolves again quickly and becomes visually thinner the longer it stays in the lungs. So for a good show: Quick in, quick out.

Where are we now with the 100/200/300 watts that the manufacturers of battery mods are forcibly putting in our shopping carts? On the one hand, you could safely boil eggs, dry firewood, or throw a monster coil into the evaporator in search of your own identity - then you can 100/200 watts as pre-heat be quite appropriate, because after pressing the fire button you want to take the train on the same day if possible.
And if you only use 100/200 watt as pre-heat, then the batterysafety-related also reasonably justifiable, because the batteries are then only heavily loaded for less than a second.
But then one thing is certain: a winding that requires massive pre-heat may make an impression when presented, but is in terms of efficiency / hardware requirements "Master of disaster". But well, you can turn it into a competition ... 😀


Oops, mods are missing here.

A winding can have too much surface! With today's winding techniques and evaporators, it is easily possible to build too much evaporation surface in the evaporator. This leads to two problems:

  • The surface offers too much contact surface for the cooling air flow and does not really get to steam. How do you compensate for that? With brute performance ...
  • In a vaporizer with little / moderate air flow and a large winding surface, the steam will get uncomfortably hot or the taste will be bad (this could be a matter of taste 😉).

On the other side of the extreme can be done with theDTL train technology already steam with 12 wattseven without starving. The clouds are also large (which is simply due to the large volume of the lungs), but of course of much lower density than, for example, 25 watts. With 12 watts you will not be happy with a very open vaporizer, because the strong wind "blows out" the 12 watts like a candle.

What to do?

Quotation, Timothy 2: 9: "Likewise, that women adorn themselves in graceful clothing with shame and discipline, not with braids or gold or pearls or exquisite garments ..."

What are these words supposed to tell us? I read from it very clearly that one should not overdo it with the neat monster windings.

I can only coolly recommend going another way:
"Mini" windings in monster vaporizers! For example: Skyhook RDTA & Zero Compensation Coil
It could be one for you Awakening to the amount of steam with "little" performance and the taste be ... By the way, it doesn't necessarily have to be a twisted coil - something also works here: Limitless -> winding


Oops, kits are missing here.


With MTL pulling technology, everything is much more moderatebecause the maximum air volume and airflow speed are much smaller than those of DTL. With MTL you can already steam with 5 watts - admittedly, that is really a special saving winding for times of war, it doesn't have to be. 7-10 watts is a normal level, the vapor density can only be increased marginally. If you need more than 12 watts, you may begin to doubt the efficiency of the winding. But of course you don't have to. Anything is allowed, and since there are no particular questions from the point of view of battery safety, MTL can also be steamed with double windings and, for example, 50 watts pre-heat and 25 watts in the pull phase, why not. Only in terms of fatter clouds has that been of no use for a long time. Especially since the steam at MTL has more opportunity to condense, i.e. to become thinner. Steam condenses in the body. The longer it stays in, the more. With MTL, the air volume is already low (compared to DTL), and there is also the intermediate station in the oral cavity, which also promotes condensation.

But # 1: The liquid consumption is almost proportional to the wattage. A cloud with 30 watts therefore also contains twice as much liquid as a 15 watt cloud, even if it doesn't look twice as fat. Anyone who thinks that it is more satisfying in terms of taste or throat hit technically speaking, MTL with 30 watts should be happy to do that.

But # 2: How many watts also depends on the air flow and the size of the evaporator chamber. With a small SOCC evaporator head, ~ 8 watts are enough, in the Skyline, for example, I always end up pretty close to 12 watts (3 air nozzles), and in the FeV dD (30 mm diameter) with its huge evaporator hall even at ~ 18 watts, everything always closer regardless of the design of the winding.


Side note: I cannot measure it and therefore cannot prove it, but I suspect that there is generally a maximum achievable (optical) vapor density. If the fog droplets are too close to each other, they have no choice but to combine with their neighbors to form larger droplets, so the optics will end at some point, the fog optically completely dense. The difference between 50 and 100 watts could therefore essentially consist of the fact that the droplets in the “100 watt fog” are larger. And I suspect the big drop will produce more throat hit.

But the assumption could also be wrong, and actually there could be twice as many droplets. Visually, there would be no difference because you can look through two A4 sheets just as badly as through one ...

Would be something for a laboratory ...

The number of batteries the mod should have depends on various things:

Maximum performance of the battery mod

A VTC5A battery can be in a regulated battery mod up to 80 watts Afford. Now you can easily work out how many batteries the mod should have if you are with 100 or 240 watts want to steam.
If you vape in the “high watt range”, as many batteries as possible are always better. If the batteries shouldn't be operated at their limit all the time and shouldn't be over after a few charging cycles, then I would with maximum 50 watts per battery calculate. Even then they wear out much faster than if you vape with 10 or 20 watts ...

It is commonplace these days Duo battery mod with 200 watts, or Trio battery mod with 300 watts,and more ... You don't need that much power in 99.481% of the applications, but since there are practically no new battery mods that do not make overly thick marketing trousers, you are more or less forced to buy something like this ... Basically, such battery mods are not safe to use operate. 160, or 240 watts would be the maximum. The advice can only be: Do not exhaust the alleged performance, and ideally: limit your power output so that no more than 80 watts per battery can be used. There are several possibilities for this, which I have written down here:
My mod is only available with 100/200/300 watts. And now?

1 vs 2 batteries and battery wear

I recently tested the Crown 4 atomizer heads, which are rated as “60-70 watts”. In reality, they are already steaming around 30 watts great (but need a lot of preheat) - that should be easy to do with a single mod, right?

Generally, yes. You can steam your heads with a single mod, but it has to do noticeably ...

  • At around 80 watts of maximum preheat, a single battery mod doesn't get its heads steaming as quickly as a dual battery mod, which can "hit" well over 100 watts of preheat.
  • The overall wear and tear on the battery is also higher due to the higher load on the individual battery.
  • A single battery will also be unusable sooner. Even a half-worn VTC5A can quickly become too weak.


  • A used VTC5A "# 1", the capacity was in new condition: 2442. Capacity now: BTC100 Discharge (0.5A): 2180. BTC100 Charge (1A): 2177 = 89%
  • The battery has, according to the "80% residual capacity rule", a little more than that Half of its life reached.
  • In the single battery mod P80, TC-Mode, Preheat 80W, then required power: around35 watts.
  • After 2.7 ml of vaporized liquid, the end of the working day, the battery breaks down massively, hardly any steam left.
  • But the mod still shows 45% charge on (3.77V battery open circuit voltage).
  • BTC100 batch: 1078

Conclusion: Of the 2177 mAh remaining capacity of the battery in this setup, real only 50% usable. And then I don't even want to imagine what it looks like with other batteries that have less "ampere stamina" than the VTC5A ...

TWO half-worn VTC5A, however, would have no problem here because they would share the load ...

Battery life serial / parallel

I am lazy and I think it's nice when I amas long as possible with one battery charge can steam. Battery mods with as many batteries as possible have an advantage, of course, or maybe not?

It gets technical for a moment: Many mods have theirs Batteries connected in series, which means that they have a higher basic voltage than battery mod with parallel switched batteries. This high basic tension is at MTL not necessary, because the power with MTL is lower (around 7-12 watts). The high basic voltage then has to be transformed downwards strongly, what with Energy losses goes hand in hand, sometimes very high. According to my measurements, the loss can be up to 50% in the worst case ... ATV: Various tests -> Battery mod efficiency

With a serial mod it can therefore happen that he with a low output power does not run much longer than a mod with one battery! And then of course it makes little sense to carry the size and weight around ...
Who vapes MTL, so tends to have a low wattage, should rather look for a mod that the Batteries connected in parallel has - there is no loss compared to a single mod. The running time increases 1: 1 with the number of batteries.

Who it is on the go small & light may come for him too AIO (All In One) devices are in question, as they are often smaller and lighter than devices with exchangeable batteries. These devices are available for both MTL (List: database) as well DTL (List: Database), or those that both support (list: database).

Pod systems can be particularly mobile: the best pod systems in comparison

With MTL, particularly small and light vaping are possible due to the lower hardware requirements. The “somewhat riotous” steamer scene no longer pays any attention to mini battery mods, somewhat wrongly, in my opinion.

Personally, I still prefer to use the small and light iStick TC40W: AM | EB | FT | GB in summer with light clothing. It can “only” 40 watts, and in TC mode only nickel and titanium, but so far I am not aware of any other battery mod that can keep up with the combination of size, weight and runtime.

Lots of watts"Pulls a rat tail behind it, because high performance also requires"much of everything else". The watt power is associated with:

  • Liquid consumption (1: 1).
  • Size of the tank - refill frequency - size & weight of the vaporizer.
  • Size & weight of the battery carrier / battery charging frequency.
  • Required number of batteries.
  • Battery wear.

For one if possible low energy consumption (Watt) the efficiency of the winding is THE adjusting screw. Thick wires are lame and need a lot of starting power. And you can also use today's wrapping techniques too much surface to have. Example: the supplied windings in the Smok Skyhook RDTA test.

If you want the smallest possible tank / refill less often / use less liquid, then you should reduce the number of puffs required per day. THE adjusting screw for this is this Nicotine dosage. If you increase the nicotine content, you need fewer puffs (in order to get “full” as an ex-smoker).

Ultimately: the less watts and liquid you need, the more more choices you have with the steamer hardware, that's nice. 🙂


If I could help you with this contribution, I would appreciate a little recognition. I would even row my arms - and I don't row my arms lightly! 😉


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