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Rhombus strips: The best tips on types of wood, use & costs
Rhombus strips are very fashionable when it comes to facade cladding. We'll show you the best types of wood, how they can be used and what they cost.
- What are rhombus strips?
- Which types of wood are suitable for rhombus strips?
- What do rhombus strips cost?
- How do I build a facade with rhombus strips?
- The underlay
- The counter battens
- The assembly of the rhombus strips
- How do I treat and care for rhombus strips?
When it comes to protecting a facade from the elements, there are many methods. A particularly elegant option are rhombus strips, also known as "diamond strips". The advantage of the wooden strips is that they can also be built in later.
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In addition, not only facades can be clad with them, but also carports, garden sheds, bicycle garages or even waste containers. In this article about rhombus strips we show you the best tips on the individual types of wood, the specific application and the costs.
What are rhombus strips?
A rhombus bar is a wooden bar with beveled sides. It is a parallelogram in cross section and thus resembles the geometric shape of the rhombus. Therefore the name. The advantage of the shape is that water cannot stay on the bar, but always drains away.
- The inclination of a rhombus strip is between 5 and 45 degrees.
- Usually an angle between 15 and 20 degrees is used.
- The strips are usually between 20 mm and 50 mm thick and 40 mm to 140 mm wide.
Which types of wood are suitable for rhombus strips?
There are some types of wood that are suitable for rhombus strips and are also available from specialist retailers. Naturally weather-resistant types of wood such as larch and Douglas fir are highly weather-resistant due to their high resin content and do not necessarily need a protective coating. Therefore, they are particularly suitable and also popular.
But it doesn't always have to be larch. Woods such as spruce, pine or fir and also oak or robinia are suitable for this. However, these should then be treated with a protective coating.
Everything else you want to know about the different types of wood can also be found in the following article:
What do rhombus strips cost?
The costs for the rhombus strips are calculated in euros per running meter. But in addition to the material costs for the strips themselves, there are also the following cost factors:
- Material costs for the roof membrane
- The material costs for the counter battens
- Material costs for fastening material
- Material costs for wood protection
- Possible labor costs (if you don't do it yourself)
The costs of the different types of wood can be found in our table:
Rhombus strips - types of wood and cost
How do I build a facade with rhombus strips?
A facade made of rhombus strips can be applied to brick, stone and wooden substrates. With plastered walls, it is more difficult to firmly connect the substructure to the facade. When drilling in plaster, the "protective skin" of the plaster, the color, is broken through. This allows the plaster to absorb moisture. In any case, you should check the load-bearing capacity of the subsurface.
Like all wooden constructions on the facade, the rhombus strips are screwed onto a stable substructure. This consists of counter battens and a sarking membrane. It is advisable to pre-drill the holes for the screw connections to avoid stress cracks or splinters in the wood. Above all, it is important that the narrow, sloping side of the bar points upwards. This means that water can always drain away and there is no waterlogging.
We generally recommend that you use high-quality V2A or V4A stainless steel wood screws. Simple, galvanized screws or angles react with different wood components. This can then lead to discoloration and stains on the wood.
You can find out how you can veneer plastered house facades with wood in our expert tip.
Always lay the roof membrane from bottom to top across the building. Make sure that the upper sheet always overlaps the lower sheet by at least ten centimeters and glue them together at the overlap. So the water flows from top to bottom and does not get behind the track.
You should use a vapor-permeable fleece for the roof membrane. This has three main advantages:
- It protects the facade from dirt such as small branches and leaves that get behind the rhombus strips.
- The fleece provides a uniform optical background for the wooden facade.
- In contrast to a film, it does not hinder the diffusibility, i.e. the necessary rear ventilation of the facade. If there is no rear ventilation, moisture and mold can develop.
Normally, rhombus strips are installed horizontally. At corners or connecting pieces, however, it can still happen that non-sloping surfaces are exposed to the weather. It is therefore important to treat the wood properly so that it becomes more weather-resistant.
The counter battens
It is best to use spruce wood for the counter battens. This is cheap and easy to work with. The battens should be at least 60 millimeters wide and 40 millimeters thick. On the one hand, this is important for holding the screws and for the necessary support surface for the rhombus strips.
The distance between the counter battens should be a maximum of 600 millimeters, otherwise there is a risk that the rhombus strips cannot be installed without distortion. The distance between the screws in the counter battens should also not be greater than 500 millimeters.
You can use scraps of wood to level out any unevenness in the subsurface. However, it is better to use plastic shims, which are pushed between the counter battens and the sarking membrane.
The fully assembled counter battens are then clad with specially cut pieces of the sarking membrane and glued to the membrane underneath. This protects the construction and hides the counter battens later.
The assembly of the rhombus strips
There are various options for installing the rhombus strips on the substructure. With so-called mounting profiles, you can easily attach the strips to the counter battens. For this purpose, prefabricated plastic profiles are screwed to the back of the bar and connected to the counter battens. However, here we describe the even simpler method without special mounting profiles.
- To get a clean end to the rhombus strips, you should first set up a so-called stop. With such a stop, you don't have to align each rhombus strip individually and you get nice, even joints. As a stop, you take a wooden slat, align it vertically with a spirit level and fasten it with screws or screw clamps to the left or right end of the facade.
- Now the strips are cut. You can now either take each measurement individually, or take the longest measured point on the facade as the main measurement. Then you have to cut to length correctly after assembly so that the strips are uniform.
- With the main measure, you saw the first bar to size. Now transfer the correct drilling distance and pre-drill the holes. Then you can use this "sample bar" to copy the other bars.
- When all the strips are finished, you still put in all the screws. It's best to start at the bottom to assemble. Take the first bar and hold it to the lower end of the counter battens, slide it flush against the stop and screw the screws one after the other from the stop side. Place a spirit level on the rhombus strip to align it correctly.
- If it is fixed, you simply put the next bar on top and put some distance between them. You can easily make your own distance measurements from a lath of the appropriate thickness. Now screw on the second strip as well. In the course of the rest of the assembly, you should always measure whether the distances to the left and right are still correct.
- The assembly distance between the rhombus strips should be between 8 and 15 millimeters. This means that no large foreign bodies can get between the strips and environmental influences such as hail and UV light do not reach the substructure.
If all rhombus strips are installed and correctly cut to length, you can still attach corner plates and other covers.
How do I treat and care for rhombus strips?
Whether you paint, varnish, oil or not treat your facade at all ultimately depends on how much you need to protect the wood from the weather and how much you value a visible wood look.
- You can either paint in the color of your choice or, of course, clear. Lacquer protects the wood optimally from the weather.
- When glazing, on the other hand, you emphasize the grain of the wood - it creates a more natural look.
- If you oil the strips, you can re-treat at any time without having to sand.
- If you like, you can leave the strips untreated. Then they turn gray over time, but are also completely natural. This is particularly recommended in places where the wood is well protected from the weather.
Our final tips: Here you can find a detailed article on glaze and varnish. We also recommend our article on the subject of wood oil.
Do you already know Wohnglück's expert services? No matter which construction, renovation or purchase project you want to tackle, our experienced experts are at your side to support you.
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